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I
know nothing about Tibet: while most of the globe is threatened
by war and hunger, I live safe, by the grace of God, tucked
comfortably away in a corner of Coastal Georgia, on a lot on the
marshes, where every morning I wake up to the sun shining on the
Vernon river, to the myriad shades of green and yellow baked on
to the grass by sun and salt. We live only a short distance
from the river, protected by a speckled prairie of marshes.
Brackish water drags mud across a slow creek where our dock
rests, straight and patient, awaiting its daily blessing of
tide. The air is permeated by the smell of musk, that which
Joel calls the smell of the cycle of life and death. When
at evenings he sits on the dock, his eyes finding comfort in the
pinks and purples of dusk, he says that life begins and ends
right here. Our world is three quarters of an acre of
Georgia land.
We know next to nothing about Tibet, Joel
and I. We once watched a movie about the Dalai Lama, about
the invasion of China. We watched with rigid displeasure at
the deception of power officials: militarists disregarding of
love and faith, drunken on ideology and secular dogma, caught in
a frenzy of power, slaughtering pregnant women, young children
and Buddhist monks. I did not cry. Nor did I cry when
the Dalai Lama, staggering with grief, cut up with thirst and
hunger, was plagued with hallucinations as he dredged on foot
through hundreds of miles of desert and mountain trails to reach
safety. Earlier in the film, the Dalai Lama was persuaded
to abandon Tibet by his advisers, and hurrying out of the high
walls of his palace, he surprised a small enclave of his
followers -- his terrified and grieving people, his
about-to-be-abandoned fellow Tibetans, who see in him not only a
political leader but a spiritual gate through which the end of
suffering comes. When these people fell at his feet in
tears, prostrate before him, praying their hopeless prayers,
pleading their hopeless pleads, a sea of human bodies rising and
falling with heaves of sorrow, then I cried, I cried with the
grief of one who has been defeated by catastrophe, wondering how,
how can a body endure so much? How could the Dalai Lama
endure leaving them? How could he suffer the paradox of such
betrayal as the only pathway of hope? I cried and still cry
to the burden of this simple and unassuming leader whose
spiritual force is a hot blast of truth against the cold,
ungracious dogma contaminating the world. And I cried for
the sacrificed hopes of the people of Tibet who watched him be
stolen from them by a merciless necessity.
I know next to
nothing about Tibet. Joel and I run errands on Sunday, in
our safe corner of Georgia where the land in spring sings with
gospel and humming-bird song, where the marshes breathe with warm
winds and with the flight of egrets, so far from Tibet, so far
from the systematic horror of Chinese occupation, so far from he
politics we do not understand nor wish to. We drive on roads
shaded by live oaks and draping Spanish moss, roads so beautiful
as to forgive even the whispers of a violent history, of racial
hatred quieted by modern times that thrives inert like a virus in
signs that tactlessly announce: "This is a Weed and Seed
Community." In the classrooms where I teach, that
history stirs when students halt with angered breaths before the
word goddamn in a poem by activist writer Patricia Smith titled
"Skinhead," but they remain unflinching when they read
the word nigger. Still, it is beautiful and peaceful here,
and it is easy to believe in peace when the oaks build chapels to
worship blue skies, the mossy tangles of their limbs intertwining
above these sleepy roads. It is Sunday and Joel and I drive past
the dressed up crowds of suits and shiny shoes and belabored
hairstyles milling outside Episcopalian churches, Catholic
churches, Baptist and Lutheran churches that crowd neighborhoods
speckled with billboards announcing messages of God love,
messages of Bible wisdom to which we have grown used to and
hardly notice anymore. I am a lapsed Catholic turned
Buddhist, and Joel is a lapsed Jew turned Taoist. We joke
that between us, if we were to adopt a Muslim child and nudge him
towards Hinduism, we would contain in our little family sphere
the most popular spiritual philosophies of the world. But
today the humid heat makes us silent. We are at that point
in the season when the azaleas spray their pink and violet
breaths on gardens and roadsides as if to make us forget the
humid heat, the unbearable thickness of the air as it gathers and
condenses on the nooks and hot folds of our bodies. We
tread in and out of Home Depots and Publix supermarkets, already
missing the jasmine scent of our backyard. We are mostly
quiet as the early afternoon heat bakes us slowly in the car, and
we listen to the radio without really listening, turning the dial
and settling on NPR. Music comes on and we are alert: it is
a mantra we hear often at Buddhist meetings and yoga meditations,
Om Mani Padme Hung, meaning, "jewel in the heart of the
lotus." A woman sings the mantra accompanied by
Buddhist drumming and bamboo flutes, and her voice spirals an
octave higher at the end refrain, capturing a grace that
transports us far from the rich blues rhythm of our cotton land
to the hard rocky landscapes of Tibet. We listen, but the
music is only a short refrain overrun by the voices of music
commentators, who, in spite of Joel's and my anticipation, fail
to clearly deliver the name of the artist. We know nothing about
Tibet. We know next to nothing about Tibet. The name
of this enthralling singer eludes us like the secrets of the
mystical Buddhist land that birthed her.
And now we've
reached our destination, but before Joel has found a parking
spot, the music critics have introduced another track, an
acappella piece. Without understanding the meaning of the
Tibetan words, ringing with heartbreaking clarity in spite of the
low sound quality of our car speakers, I am suddenly in another
place, a place I have never been to before, a place of rock and
ice and blinding light, a place where the sun never warms the
ground enough for comfort. And as the woman sings, her
words reach deep inside me to that place, dig like the sharp
claws of a hungry animal, tearing up layers of rock and soil, and
within seconds, I am rendered helpless, crying as her voice
gathers in my chest and digs and overturns the hard cold spaces
in my conscience. I do not understand Tibetan or the
meaning of her chant, but the power behind the woman's voice
pounds and grinds and corrodes, and then I feel as though I am
dust, seeping into the terrain of that land, mixing with salt and
mineral, with soil and dirt. An unbearable longing sweeps
over me with the power of absolute mourning. Having never
been a mother, I feel like a mother who has lost all her children
to hunger and violence, a mother forced to watch her precious
charges wither with bruises and skin sores; I am experiencing a
loss so complete that it leaves me wordless, breathless,
paralyzed with a pain so subterranean it is something older then
I am, primeval, pain so inevitable and compassionate that it
becomes the utter surrender of the religious mystic, the complete
abandonment of faith that one embraces against absolute despair.
Joel asks me something, but it is all I can do to try and
breathe, and I burst into hard, wordless sobs. Concerned,
Joel pulls over and places his hand over my heart, but by now the
track has ended, the show is nearly over, the music critics have
failed to repeat the name of the artist for late-tuning
listeners, although they have managed to leave behind a clue:
This song, they explain, is a call to all Lamas who have
abandoned Tibet, a call to please return. Now I cry, like I
cried when I saw the film on Tibet, I cry in complete idiocy and
against all logic, I cry tears I could not shed for the Chinese
occupation that I cared about only sometimes, when reading
grassroots emails and newspaper articles. The spell of the
song has elapsed, a throbbing heaviness in my chest the only
reminder of this strange event, but a renewed awareness of
transcending connectedness with the world takes its place.
Somehow, the meaning of Lahmo's words have broken through
the barrier of language, awakening the need and longing to
return, with every step through life's journey, across physical
and emotional landscapes, return to that human dignity that binds
us all with every act of love, with every gesture of compassion.
It takes almost a year before I find the song again, by
accident, browsing a Web site for a meditation cd I heard about
through a friend. When I read a reviewer's comments about
Yungchen Lhamo's preference for acappella I become hopeful
and eagerly buy both of this artist's cds. My intuition
proves right, and today, in the comfort of my quiet and safe
house by the Vernon river, I listen again to the voice of Tibet,
the voice that in a few unexpected seconds gifted me with an
experiential understanding of that transcendent love that binds
all beings from all corners of the earth. The song
that broke my heart is titled "Someday" in the Ama cd.
As I flip open the covers I read Lhamo's prayer:
This
song is for the Dalai Lama and all of the Lamas and people who
left Tibet already many years ago. Losbo means come home.
Please come back to your homeland...
Yet, even as I
listen now, even as I am still moved to tears by the surprises
that Lhamo delivers, the wanton energy of her voice, for example,
in the coda of Om Mani Padme Hung, an energy that speaks of
unnamable courage, a voice that charges the suffering to have
hope -- even as I am still carried by the beauty of that rare
grace, I am feeling only an echo of the transcendence I felt that
Sunday in my car, surprised and speared by her call to return to
Tibet.
And I think that the singularity of that event,
too, is significant, a reminder of the preciousness of every
moment, of the pungency of each unexpected breath that, through
grace, pervades us and gifts us with terrible, beautiful,
inimitable life.
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